Seeking innovation at Cosmoprof North America’s (CPNA) second Miami exhibition, Shark Tank’s Daymond John stopped at the Exoceuticals booth in the Discover Beauty special section.
John has first-hand knowledge of the benefits of exosomes from his Arizona physician, says Dr. Robin Smith, Exoceuticals co-founder. “He was anxious to learn about the benefits being used topically in aesthetics and beauty.” Exoceuticals is at the forefront of exosomes technology—nanoparticles that carry proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids between cells and have been found beneficial for skin health—and a bustling booth at the show.
Exosomes were just one of the buzzy topics at the CPNA trade show attended by 19,000 visitors from 49 countries at the Miami Convention Center January 21-23. The number of exhibitors jumped 28% to 899 over last year, the first Miami meeting. CPNA also stages a show in July in Las Vegas.
“The powerful collaboration between emerging voices, industry leaders, and suppliers showcased at our event is driving the ongoing growth and transformation of the beauty landscape,” says Liza Rapay, VP, Head of Cosmoprof North America and founder of Beauty New York.
Those attending noticed heavier traffic and increased interaction at booths versus last year's inaugural Miami show. "There was still a lack of some big companies, but there were definitely more attendees, and it stayed busy,” observes industry veteran Jeffrey Ten.
Sydney Wagner, Equity Research Senior Associate at Jefferies, notes the headway made since the Miami debut. “Miami this year was more developed,” she says adding the importance of the Latin America focus afforded by the Miami location. “We are hearing from more of our companies that it is a key emerging market, especially for those with fragrance and bodycare exposure.”
That's underscored by Ulta Beauty's plans to open stores this year in Mexico, where the retailer feels there are rich opportunities.
Among the retailers participating in educational sessions and vendor meetings were CVS, Ulta Beauty, JCPenney, Macy’s, Belk, Neiman Marcus, and Beautyspace.
Despite chilly weather, concerns over tariffs, and intense competition from Amazon and TikTok Shop (now the eighth-largest beauty seller), the mood on the floor was upbeat. “The industry is strong,” says Noah Rosenblatt, President of Beautyspace.
Rosenblatt and other attendees singled out growth opportunities, including expanding LED technology for home use and overall bodycare, the flurry of fragrance brands, and the return of K-beauty. Other trends included bright and bold packaging to attract younger customers, adding AI and AR for hyper-personalization, merging food and beauty ingredients, and ongoing attention to hair/scalp health.
Fragrance Front And Center
The proliferation of fragrances on the floor was hard to miss, a move that’s not surprising considering the ongoing explosion of fragrance sales.
“I was amazed at fragrance’s footprint on the trade floor, and that growth really stood out,” observes Wagner. The fragrance industry, she says, is becoming driven by the impact of scent on mood as well as becoming a multilevel ritual that starts from the shower. Examples included the mood boosting Solinotes brand and Chasin’ Rabbits Hand Perfume.
“There was a large presence of Arabian fragrance brands such as Armaf,” says Ten. That makes sense, he adds, because of the large contingent of South American attendees at the meeting—which was a goal of adding Miami to the Cosmoprof roster. According to CPNA, LATAM companies accounted for about half of the international attendees.
"They [Armaf] sell high quality, high oil, and last longer. In addition to its popularity in the Middle East, the fragrances appeal to the Latin audience, which prefers strong fragrances,” says Ten. Middle Eastern fragrances grew by more than 400% in 2024, according to information from Jefferies.
Karen Young, CEO of The Young Group, found Dossier one of the most interesting booths. "They have high-quality fragrances as well as dupes," she said. The brand is expanding beyond Walmart where it has sold alternatives of designer scents to offer custom signature scents. Convention goers could find their own scent with an interactive tool called Alnee.
The Intersection Of Food And Beauty
The merging of food and personal care is gaining traction. “We normally see a two- to three-year lead time from when food ingredients go from the food aisle to the beauty aisle. There was a haircare brand with black truffle and a skincare brand with mushrooms,” says Jefferies' Wagner. Mixsoon showed a vegan snail mucin option incorporating beans. Moo Elixir had tallow-based skincare.
The Second K-Beauty Wave
K-beauty influences spanned across the show floor, signaling a revival of a significant trend a decade ago. K-beauty 2.0 features many items promoted on TikTok. Although not the 10 or 12-step regimens of a decade ago, Wagner does see people adding a few steps back into their regimens.
“Newer innovations we saw included essences, an added skincare step between cleanser and moisturizer. Gentle serums and oils have replaced actives and harsh chemical-based products,” says Wagner. People are also adapting different regimens for day versus night.
Brands mentioned with innovation in K-beauty included Some By Mi, as well as products from beauty accelerator Egongegong, Voesh, Mixsoon, and Chasin’ Rabbits.
LED Everything
LED technology, like red-light devices, are making waves for whole bodycare. Faeves by Celeste caught the attention of Shark Tank investor Johns for its LED yoga mat. According to the brand CEO Denis van Gulik, the mat supports muscle recovery, improves skin texture and circulation through a red & blue light pad. Retailers also noted enthusiasm about T.A.B. Beauty, which has an LED headband to simulate growth around the hairline in the works.
Carolina DelRio, General Manager Beauty for C.O. Bigelow, also singled out SookSkincare's K Mask, which combines red, blue, and purple lights—a point of difference most LED products offer.
Metamorphosis debuted the Morpho Glow, a butterfly-shaped gua sha device enhanced with red light therapy, microcurrents, and heat to sculpt and revitalize skin.
The Skinification Of Hair
Hair health, the biggest trend at last year’s Las Vegas meeting, was also on the front burner. There were booths with head massages, hair growth solutions, and wigs.
“What stood out to us were pH balancing, pollution protecting, and atomic repair claims. Repair seems to have taken the place of bonding on package labels to some extent,” observes Wagner.
The skinification of hair shows no signs of slowing. “Hair and scalp wellness is on the rise with the ongoing burring of skin and hair as far as ingredients,” says Lisa Green, VP DMM of JCPenney.
The brand Lola From Rio is expanding in Walmart with a new look that was previewed at Cosmoprof Miami. The range includes the Rapunzel line of products to nurture scalp health and promote hair growth, the Meu Chacho Minha Vida Line for textured hair, Ela e Caroica for repair and styling, Morte Subita for chemically treated and damaged hair, and Xapadinha for sleek styles.
Other stars in hair included Sachajuan, a hair fragrance; Linange from Italy with natural ingredients for scalp health; B.To Care, an in-salon keratin and hyaluronic acids; and Abril et Nature's Molecular Therapy that rebuilds hair fibers and split ends.
Sticking With Sustainability
Although some experts sensed a pullback in sustainability efforts, Chasin’ Rabbits and KIIMA remain committed to reducing the excess waste associated with beauty. KIIMA offers refillable deodorant applicators that link with natural, vegan, and cruelty-free deodorants producers. Chasin' Rabbits focuses on sustainability using upcycled beauty practices, FSC-certified paper for packaging, and recycled materials in containers.
Privately, some attendees discussed the importance of DEI, especially in beauty. “Conversations around DEI changes were both disappointing and hopeful with a belief that the beauty industry is thriving on diversity ... which only makes us better.”
